Mountfitchet Castle

   The site is believed to have been an Iron Age fort (similar to Thetford and Colchester), then, over time like most other settlements, it became overrun by Romans, then Vikings then Saxons.

By 1066 it was in the hands of a Robert Grenon, who constructed a motte-and-bailey (presumably, as they didn't take long to build), with the later being replaced in stone in the 12th century.

   At some point the surname Grenon was changed to Montfitchet, and Robert's great-great grandson Richard was one of the barons who rose against King John and was thus the cause of an attack on the castle. And, surprisingly, was also one of the barons who ensured Magna Carta was recognised in 1215 (infamously at Runnymede). The above picture shows how much is left of the 12th century masonry, and we can only imagine what it once looked like. Shame, really.  

   These days, Mountfitchet Castle is a living history site where you're able to experience what it might have been like for common folk over 900 years ago. There are animals roaming about (including a peahen), and even though it's aimed at children I as an adult and an amateur historian got a lot out of it.

Chapel of St Peter-on-the-Wall

   Built by St Cedd in the seventh century - 654 (after having sailed from Lindisfarne), this chapel is one of the oldest in England. Situated on the walls of a Roman fort, that's how it found it's name ('on the wall'), and Cedd likely first used wood before changing it to stone so it would be more permanent. 

   Cedd was eventually made Bishop of the East Saxons (due to the success of his Christian mission), and also established Christian houses in Essex - at Mersea, Upminster, Prittlewell, Tilbury and even one in Lastingham (Northumbria). And it was at Lastingham that he died after falling ill, thirty of the monks from St Peter-on-the-wall having travelled from Essex in which to sit with him whilst he saw out his last days.

   These pictures were taken nearly two years ago and I'd love to return when (if) the weather permits it.

Combined Military Services Museum, Maldon

   When Maldon is thought of, the great battle of 991 usually springs to mind - when ealdorman Byrthnoth led the Essex fyrd to an immense defeat against the 'wicings' who'd been camping on Northey Island, when Æthelred II paid said 'wicings' tribute - according to the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, to the sum of '10,000 pounds'.

   Today, it consists of (to name a few things), a wonderful high street, shops aplenty, a quaint museum in the park, and the Combined Military Services Museum. 

   From a 10th century sword, right through to modern day rifles and firearms, this museum has something for every military enthusiast. 

   The ground level is filled with poleaxes, morning stars, maces, chain and plate armour, the first contains spy weapons (think MI5, James Bond and the KGB), grenades, missiles and sea mines, and the second level is more dedicated to uniforms and guns.

   Whatever period you're interested in, this museum has it. And at £5.75 per person it is well worth a visit. 

Thetford

   Two years ago, I was lucky enough to go to Thetford, Norfolk. With history ranging from the Iron and Roman age right through to the Reformation (Thomas Howard, 2nd Duke of Norfolk, was originally buried at Thetford Priory), it certainly is an interesting town.

   My personal interest in Thetford though dates back to the year 1004, when the sea-pirates (or Vikings), ravaged the area after having broken a truce to thegn (possibly an ealdorman): Ulfcetel.

'the force came to Thetford within three weeks of ravaging Norwich, and were there for one night, ravaged the borough and burnt it down' - The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle

   After this ravaging King Swein of Denmark met Ulfcetel and the men of East Anglia in battle and won, though both sides had heavy losses. The Chronicle also states that 'they had never met harder hand-play in England that Ulfcetel brought them' - this shows that if Ulfcetel had had more men, more strength, then the battle probably would've had a different outcome. 

   Because this battle occurred over a 1,000 years ago the exact location for it is difficult to determine. However I can offer two scenarios - they either fought in two shield-walls outside the ditched enclosure (burh), or within the town with the Danes making use of the old Roman fort. My understanding of Vikings is that they only did battle as a last resort, so they were most certainly caught unawares by (possibly Ulfcetel), and some of the East Anglian fyrd on this occasion.  

   Another Anglo-Danish battle (battle of Ringmere) took place on 5th May 1010, about 5 miles north of Thetford, so it is my mission to follow in author Patricia Bracewell's footsteps and locate the battlefield! 

Last picture is courtesy of Patricia Bracewell 

Battle of Hastings

   Everyone knows that the Battle of Hastings took place on 14th September 1066, and may think they know why William invaded (because Edward the Confessor promised William the crown back in 1051 when William spent Christmas in England). However, William wouldn't have left Normandy at this point (1051-1052) due to unrest in the duchy caused by a certain Belleme family and the greedy Count of Anjou, so, why did he believe himself to be worthy of the Crown of England? Well, he was a great nephew of Emma of Normandy (Edward the Confessor's mother), so he might have thought himself more throne-worthy than Edward the Exile (Edmund Ironside's son), but, I doubt this. Edward the Exile's claim was better than his own, as was Edgar æthlings.

   Another reason might have been because he and Edward the Confessor grew close when the latter was exiled in Normandy during the reigns of Cnut and Harold Harefoot, but, again, this is doubtful. The age gap was fairly big (the Confessor born between 1003-1005, with William being born around 1027), so the two of them would've had little in common.
   The most plausible reason then, would be in regard to Harold Godwinsson's trip to Normandy c.1064-1065). We don't know for certain why Harold sailed the Narrow Sea (a fishing trip gone wrong, rescuing his exiled brother: Wulfnoth and nephew: Hakon), but we DO KNOW he fought with William in Brittany, made some kind of oath related to the succession of the English throne. The question is however, did Harold take the oath as seriously as William did? - Well, he likely didn't as he was crowned more or less as soon as the Confessor died - spending much of his short reign on edge - first binding himself to earls Morcar and Edwin by marrying their sister: Edyth, then keeping watch on the Isle of Wight till the 8th September 1066, waiting to see sails on the horizon. He must've known that William would not have forgotten that oath and would sail to try and claim the Kingship, but obviously had enough confidence in himself that he and his fyrd could beat the Normans, likely because the latter would be on unfamiliar territory and if losing would only have the sea at their backs. The only problem though, was that he couldn't keep his army waiting on the Wight because of harvest-time, and also because they'd already been waiting for months.
   What would have happened if they'd waited a little longer, allowed Tostig and Hardrada the North and focused on William? We will, unfortunately, never know. But it's an interesting subject to contemplate!!

Dunwich

Dunwich, in the county of Suffolk, was once the capital of the Kingdom of the Angles and one of the most prosperous ports and harbours in the county. By the seventh century, it had an Episcopal see (established by St Felix), and by 672 the diocese was divided between Dunwich and Elmham. And this continued as such till the 950s, when the two sees were united under one bishop with the bishop's ecclesiastical jurisdiction (Episcopal Seat) at Elmham.

A quote from Domesday book - 1086

'Edric of Laxfield held Dunwich before 1066 as one manor; now Robert Malet holds it; then two carucates of land, now one, the sea carried off the other (carucate).'

Domesday also mentions three churches in Dunwich, though by the 13th century had eight in total. Not that this would last for long, however. On January 1st 1286, a storm destroyed buildings on the eastern edge of the town, and there were floods in February 1287 and December 1287. Another storm followed in 1347, and by 1362 another flood caused even more destruction.

What is left though, of its medieval heyday, is a 13th century Franciscan Priory and the Leper hospital of St James

And it did retain the right to send two members to Parliament until the 1832 Reform Act, which ousted any Rotten Boroughs (which of course Dunwich was!)

In its present state Dunwich is a charming village by the sea complete with gorgeous views, a lovely pub and of course it has a museum (donations are welcomed). It is well worth a visit even if you're not into history ;)